Coffee is one of the world's favorites
Today, there are numerous ways to prepare this aromatic beverage. For instance, in the early 20th century, Milanese engineer Luigi Bezzera invented the mechanical coffee machine. Since then, the term "espresso" has come to signify strong coffee brewed under high pressure. This invention marked the beginning of the modern espresso machine. Interestingly, this method of coffee preparation is the most popular among consumers in Ukraine.
3 The origin of coffee remains unknown. However, there is a legend suggesting that the drink originated in Ethiopia. According to the myth, a shepherd named Kaldi noticed that his goats became extraordinarily energetic after eating berries from the coffee tree. He shared this with monks, who began brewing the drink to stay awake during their night prayers.
4 Coffee quickly spread to the Middle East, particularly to Yemen, where the first coffeehouses emerged. By the 16th century, the drink had reached the Ottoman Empire and from there made its way to Europe through trade routes.
5 Coffee arrived in Ukrainian lands thanks to Patrick Gordon, who was the commander of Kyiv in 1678. During his tenure, Mr. Gordon introduced the citizens of Kyiv to a secular lifestyle that already included a cup of coffee, especially when discussing business matters.
6 However, at that time, coffee was served without any sweet additives, so it appeared black and tasted simply bitter. It wasn't until five years later that Ukrainian Cossack Yuri Kulchytsky would offer Western citizens an alternative way to prepare coffee. One day, Yuri was captured by the Ottomans, where he not only learned their language but also their coffee-drinking tradition.
Interestingly, it is quite possible that Kulchytsky taught Bohdan Khmelnytsky how to drink coffee, as he was also known for his passion for the beverage.
7 Later, Kulchytsky improved the drink by adding sugar and cream, and opened his coffeehouse "Under the Blue Bottle" in Vienna. This is how the legendary "Viennese coffee" was born, and the coffee culture that emerged in Austria then spread to Lviv (which at the time was a well-known trading center of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth) and successfully flowed into the rest of Ukraine.
By the end of the 18th century, coffee became part of daily life in Kyiv, but was only accessible to the wealthy. The drink, which became a symbol of intellectual gatherings, was primarily consumed by the intelligentsia.
8 9 In 1840, the first coffeehouse opened on Mykhailivska Street, thanks to German merchant Gottlieb Finke. The establishment was renowned not only for its coffee beverages but also for its pastries. However, it wasn't that simple, as coffee was still a luxury for the affluent. Therefore, not every visitor could enter the coffeehouse, only those who were well-dressed. There was even an employee at the entrance who granted permission to enter, and soldiers, peasants, and the poor were not allowed inside.
In the 1860s, another coffeehouse called "Swiss Confectionery" opened on Khreshchatyk, and as you might guess, it was indeed opened by a Swiss – Martin Stifler. The establishment quickly gained a reputation for being the most expensive. A cup of coffee cost 20 kopecks, which at that time was equivalent to the price of half a kilogram of beef.
0 In 1878, Bernard Semadeni bought one of Stifler's coffeehouses, establishing one of the most successful and famous venues in the capital. "Semadeni" – Bernard's coffeehouse – was known for the finest cocoa and confectionery. The establishment became a popular meeting place for people in high positions as well as notable personalities, whose aim was not only to enjoy sweets and drinks but also to read newspapers and magazines, as "Semadeni" subscribed to various publications. Additionally, with the establishment of a telephone station, Bernard Semadeni decided to purchase a telephone number in 1885, allowing visitors to connect with anyone directly from the coffeehouse.
1 Another popular spot was the confectionery factory of Franz Golombek called "Francois," which offered its products at a more affordable price than its competitors.
2 However, the most luxurious place to enjoy delicious coffee was the "Georges" coffeehouse. The establishment opened in 1872 at the corner of Khreshchatyk and Prorezna streets, thanks to Georg Dortenman. The coffeehouse's interior was characterized by a glamorous style. The decor was designed by Mikhail Vrubel, while the renovation was handled by Vladislav Gorodetsky, who often visited "Georges" himself.
Due to its prime location and its own confectionery specialty – "Georges" cakes – the establishment became iconic. The menu at "Georges" included teas, candies, pastries, and figurine chocolates, and among the drinks, they favored coffee varieties like "Mocha," "Java," and "Ceylon."
3 With the onset of World War I, the coffeehouse actively participated in charity work. For instance, in December 1914, "Georges," together with the troupe of Ukrainian luminary Mykola Sadovsky, held a charitable event to raise funds for soldiers. The essence of the initiative was that artists dressed in folk costumes blocked the entrance to the confectionery, creating something like an improvised barrier. Visitors could only enter after dropping a coin into a special cup to raise the barrier. This collaboration was successful and raised significant funds.
Even amidst the economic crisis of that period, the establishment remained elite and continued to cater to the wealthy, for which it was often criticized.
4 With the rise of the Bolsheviks, coffee was forgotten for a long time, and the corresponding establishments in Kyiv disappeared. Coffee beans were imported from abroad, and during the tense geopolitical relations between the socialist and capitalist camps, coffee was abolished as a symbol of Western culture. It was not until Khrushchev's era that coffee gradually began to make a comeback, mostly in the form of chicory.
During the period of independence, coffee culture quickly spread across Ukrainian territories. Moving away from a planned economy, the market gradually filled with coffee products. Today, the coffee market in Ukraine demonstrates stable growth and development. A multitude of international and local coffeehouses have emerged, which undoubtedly offers consumers a wide array of alternatives.
Moreover, the popularity of coffee can be attributed to the trend toward a healthy lifestyle. As new research indicates, regular coffee consumption is linked to the prevention of chronic and degenerative diseases, including cancer, cardiovascular diseases, diabetes, and Parkinson's disease.
In fact, coffee provides preventive benefits for the body; however, it is essential to understand that such effects can depend on numerous factors such as genetics, lifestyle, and overall health. Therefore, it is best to consume coffee in moderation.
Where in Kyiv can you find coffee early in the morning?
5 “Cafe Marko” – located at: Sofiivska Street, 19, opens at 7:30.
6 “Avalon” – situated near the Golden Gates at: Leontovicha Street, 3. The establishment opens at 7:00 and offers not only coffee but also breakfast options – croissants, porridge, toasts, etc.
7 “11 Mirrors Rooftop Restaurant & Bar” – located at: Bohdan Khmelnytsky Street, 34a. The restaurant opens at 7:00 and serves hot drinks as well as light and hearty breakfasts.
8 “White Noise Coffee & Bistro” – located at: Kostiantynivska Street, 11, opens at 7:00.
Daria FROLOVA